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Tuesday 2 September 2008

Cee dee

It seems an age since I last blogged. I tried to put this up yesterday but couldn't upload the photos! I think my computer was complaining again! "Too many photos! Too much information! I'm too full!" So today I filled 2CDs worth of photos, and tonight no complaints from the computer!

Well, Friday, I drove down past the Crook Inn and Tweedsmuir again, on past the source of the river Tweed, into the Dumfries & Galloway region. I passed the monument to the 19th century mail men who tried to get their mail coach through a snow blizzard to deliver the mail, but who perished in the attempt - more of that another day - and came down past the Devil's Beeftubs (!!!) into Moffat where again I was reminded of meeting up with cousin Murray. Following the road south towards Dumfries I eventually turned on to the route that leads west to where the ferry crosses to Ireland. I was only going another 18 miles to Castle Douglas where Murray had lived for the last decade or so, and where I was then going to attend his memorial service and funeral.

The small church is just a few doors along from Murray's home, an old church with a beautiful interior - stain glass windows, wooden beams, etc. - and it was full, of Murray's family, and the many friends he had made, through walking the dogs (Border terriers - Rosie will miss him), his visits to the pub, the British Legion, fishing, etc. He was a very popular man. The service was led by the minister who also had known Murray on a personal level, and was very moving. His two sons, Charles and Robert, and grandson Alex, read passages from the Bible, and Maxine, Charles' wife, read out a beautiful poem she had written about her father-in-law. It was called "Gone Fishing!" There were tears and laughter, as we were reminded of the Murray each of us remembered. I felt so sorry I hadn't had so much time to get to know him - only a few meetings in the last year or so - but I too had my own good memories of him. As Maxine said, he didn't seem like a 79-year-old! He was young at heart. After the service some of the congregation left for the crematorium 55 miles away in Carlisle, where we said our final goodbyes.
I had decided to spend a night in Cee Dee, as the locals call Castle Douglas, so drove back over there afterwards for tea, a little exploration and a rekky for the next day. Robert had invited me to visit in the morning, but I also planned on a visit to either a nearby castle or a neighbouring garden.




The theatre by Carlingwark loch




My B&B room at Douglas House was very comfortable. It is seldom that a single room comes with its own en suite bathroom, but this one did, without compromising the size of the room. There was also a TV, and a kettle with various bits and pieces for a hot drink and a nibble! I read the visitors' guides and decide that the next day I'd visit the ruined castle on an island in the middle of the river Dee! I slept well, and after a delicious breakfast in the morning I headed off to look at the shops in the main street. In a second hand bookshop I discovered a copy of "The Contour Road Book of Scotland" that had been compiled by my great uncle and published by the family firm in the 1920s. I think I'll have to tell you about that some day soon! These Contour Road Books are such interesting little tomes! I spent £3.50 (wonder how much it was new? Three and a half pounds was probably a lot of money in those days, but today is so little!)

My visit with Murray's son Robert and his wife Michelle, was very pleasant, and over a cup of tea we talked about our respective families - Robert's grandfather and mine were brothers - wondering why it was that the families of the two never met each other. Murray had certainly been unaware of my mother's existence, though I feel that my mother probably knew about Murray but just never mentioned him or his parents. Her father's family was a taboo subject when I was growing up, though I do just remember visits to an elderly aunt (mother's great aunt, it turned out) in Glasgow when I was quite young. After her death the visits to Glasgow ended. However Murray also remembered Aunt Isa, and her son and daughter-in-law, so I wonder if there was ever mention of the "other family". I dare say Isa's descendants may not know much if anything. Still, it would be nice to get in touch with them. I think I can still find out where they are - not a common Scottish surname!!!

I left Robert and Michelle who were about to be heading home to the south, having exchanged addresses and email addresses, so I hope we keep in touch. Michelle's family live in Dundee so they come up to visit there from time to time. Maybe they will call me and drop in to visit next time.

After a rather nice sandwich in the cafe of a craft and design shop I took myself off in the car the couple of miles out of town to Threave castle. From the car park there's a bit of a walk down a country path, edging fields, meadows and wetlands to the river bank and jetty where visitors ring the iron bell to alert the ferryman, who then leaves whatever work he is doing on the island to come over in the launch and pick up whoever is waiting. The castle tower, still almost complete is pretty much all that is left of a bustling island community, built up to serve the castle and its inhabitants. It was constructed in the 14th century, the 1300s, by one Archibald the Grim, Lord of Galloway and third Earl of Douglas. It was never a fancy castle but very functional with cellars, a well and a prison at its lowest level; kitchens above; the Great Hall in the middle, with bedchambers above that. The former roof area, above all the rest, during a siege for example, would house men-at-arms, who would be in a good position to counter attack and defend the castle. I took several photos of the inside of the square tower where the wonderful barrel vaulted kitchen ceiling and stone-flagged floor of the Hall are quite intact. Above the hall would have been a timber roof supported by huge wooden beams. The holes in the walls indicate that the beams themselves were supported by yet more beams. The same would have occurred in the bedchambers, while the floors would have been wooden planks laid across the beams. In 1460 at the threat of attack an outer wall with circular corner towers was hurriedly built to protect the main tower. Obviously it did its job well as the outer wall has all but disappeared while the main tower is in excellent condition. In its heyday the interior walls would have been plastered and hung with tapestries to make living there comfortable. With the thick walls it would have been cool in winter and reasonably warm in winter!

















These are photos of a model showing how the castle might have looked in 1460.


I really enjoy looking round these old castles - inherited from my dad I reckon. We must have visited dozens of castles over the course of my childhood! After photos from all angles, it was time to leave the island and walk back to the car, to start my two hour journey home. It was like I had had a small holiday by being away from home overnight. I think Murray would have approved of that!

Talk again soon.

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